charyn.kz an independent guide to wild Kazakhstan

Ancient cities of Kazakhstan: nine sites and what is left to see

Otrar, Sauran, Taraz, Talgar and five more historical places in Kazakhstan where a town once stood. Expect mounds, earth walls and excavated foundations rather than standing monuments like those of Samarkand.

  • 9 places on the list
  1. 01 Otrar, the Silk Road city in southern Kazakhstan that fell to Genghis Khan A mound up to 18 m high with excavated quarters, baths and mosques. The town survived the siege of 1219. April, October Turkistan: 50 km direct day trip
  2. 02 Sauran, the abandoned walled city on the Syr Darya steppe An oval of walls 800×550 m, 3–6 m high where they have slumped, once a Kazakh Khanate fortress. April, September–October 46 km from Turkistan weekend
  3. 03 Sairam Old Isfijab is now a neighbourhood of Shymkent, with mud-brick lanes and mausoleums. May, September–October Shymkent: ~15 km, straight day trip
  4. 04 Ancient Taraz An excavation of the 11th–12th century town right in central Taraz, on the old market site. April–May, September–October Almaty 450 km, straight weekend
  5. 05 Talgar Settlement, a medieval Silk Road town on the edge of modern Talgar Stone foundations of medieval Talkhiz, just 27 km in a straight line from Almaty. June, September 27 km from Almaty (line) day trip
  6. 06 Saraishyk, the Golden Horde city on the Ural River near Atyrau A dug-out Golden Horde town on the Ural River, with a museum-reserve beside it. May, September 47 km from Atyrau (line) 3+ days
  7. 07 Kostobe, Kazakhstan The 420×450 m earth ramparts of medieval Jamukat, about 15 km from Taraz. April–May, September–October ~15 km from Taraz weekend
  8. 08 Akyrtas A puzzle in red sandstone: low walls on a 180×205 m plan, with no agreed explanation of what it was. April–May, September–October ~36 km from Taraz weekend
  9. 09 Shymkent Citadel A real mound and real digs inside a newly built fortress in the middle of Shymkent. Spring, autumn Visitors 1,000 tenge day trip

The ancient cities of Kazakhstan are mostly in the south, along the Syr Darya and in Zhetysu, and they survive as earthworks, not as old towns to stroll through. If you come from Uzbekistan with Samarkand in your head, reset your expectations. Sauran has the clearest plan, Talgar is the easiest from a big city, and ancient Taraz lies right under the modern centre.

What you actually see at each site

Very little here stands above head height, so choose by how much imagination you are willing to bring. The table goes from the most readable to the most specialist.

SitePeriodWhat is on the groundBase
Sauranpeak 14th–17th c.oval of walls, towers, underground water channelsTurkistan, 43–46 km
Otrarabandoned early 19th c.mound up to 18 m, excavated quarters, bathsTurkistan, about 50 km straight line
Saraishyk13th–16th c.digs by the river, Pantheon of Khans, visitor centreAtyrau, 47 km straight line
Shymkent Citadellayers from 3rd–2nd c. BCreal mound inside a rebuilt fortressin the city
Ancient Tarazpeak 11th–12th c., burned 1220excavation on the old marketcentral Taraz
Sairamon the site of Isfijabmausoleums, mud-brick streetsShymkent, 15 km straight line
Talgar8th–13th c.stone foundationsAlmaty, 27 km straight line
Akyrtas8th–9th c.red sandstone walls 1–1.5 m highTaraz, about 36 km straight line
Kostobe6th–12th c.low ramparts, finds moved to Taraz museumTaraz, about 15 km

The order is our judgement, based on what each guide describes. Straight-line figures understate the drive.

Otrar: excavated blocks of the medieval city
Excavated quarters at Otrar. Most of the town is still under the mound. Yakov Fedorov · Wikimedia Commons · CC BY-SA 4.0

If you have one trip: Turkistan and its ruins

Base yourself in Turkistan and you get the strongest combination in the country. The Yasawi mausoleum gives you the standing architecture that the ruins lack, and Otrar and Sauran supply the scale of the medieval towns around it.

You will almost certainly need a car and driver, as we could not confirm public transport to either ruin. There is no shade, and July averages above 34 °C by day, so aim for spring or early autumn.

Near Almaty and Taraz: half-day options

Talgar is the realistic pick if you are based in Almaty and short of time. It was recorded as Talkhiz in a text of 982 and emptied out in the second half of the 13th century. Go with the guide open on your phone, because unmarked foundations say little by themselves.

From Taraz, three sites make a full day: the dig in the city, Kostobe and Akyrtas. The last two belong to the UNESCO Silk Roads property described in the Silk Road in Kazakhstan. Check Akyrtas on the place page first, since one widely copied coordinate puts it tens of kilometres off.

This guide covers places where a town stood. For shrines, see the Yasawi mausoleum and other Silk Road shrines. For rock art, see the petroglyphs of Kazakhstan. Finds from these digs are displayed in the museums of Kazakhstan. Further back still, Botai in the north is a settlement of 3700–3100 BC with more than 150 dwellings, though we could not confirm what is visible there today.

Not verified yet
  • Entry fees and hours at most sites, and the visiting procedure at Kostobe, Akyrtas and Talgar.
  • Public transport to Sauran and Otrar, and road times.

Frequently asked questions

What are the ancient cities of Kazakhstan?
The most famous are Otrar, Sauran, Taraz, Sairam and Talgar in the south, and Saraishyk on the Ural River in the west. Most lay on Silk Road routes and are now archaeological sites.
Is there anything like Samarkand or Bukhara in Kazakhstan?
Not as a historic city you can walk through. The clearest standing monument of that kind is the Yasawi mausoleum in Turkistan. Elsewhere you are reading a plan from mounds and foundations.
Which site is closest to Almaty?
Talgar, about 27 km in a straight line, on the southern edge of the modern town. It has been part of a UNESCO property since 2014.

Sources