charyn.kz an independent guide to wild Kazakhstan
Semipalatinsk Test Site: a blast crater with a lake in the steppe from the air

Semipalatinsk Test Site: history, location and whether you can visit

The Soviet Union carried out 456 nuclear tests at the Semipalatinsk Test Site in north-east Kazakhstan between 1949 and 1989, by the IAEA's count. Kazakhstan closed it on 29 August 1991. Most of the area shows little or no residual radioactivity, but the worst-contaminated parts are under a special legal regime, and we found no published rules for tourist visits.

  • About 18,000–19,000 km²
  • Tests from 1949 to 1989
  • 456 tests (IAEA)
  • Closed 29 Aug 1991
  • ~130 km from Semey

Photo: The Official CTBTO Photostream · Wikimedia Commons · CC BY 2.0

Semipalatinsk Test Site: when to go, month by month

  1. January: off season
  2. February: off season
  3. March: off season
  4. April: possible
  5. May: best time
  6. June: good
  7. July: good
  8. August: good
  9. September: best time
  10. October: possible
  11. November: off season
  12. December: off season

Open steppe near Semey: about 20 °C by day in May and September, below freezing by day from November to March (ERA5 normals for the Balapan area).

Semipalatinsk Test Site: why go

The Experimental Field

Site of the first test on 29 August 1949 and of above-ground blasts until 1962. Made safe in 2013–2020 under a joint programme with the US.

Degelen

A low mountain massif riddled with tunnels, where the first underground test took place on 11 October 1961. The tunnels were sealed with US help by 2000.

Balapan and the Atomic Lake

The borehole test area, scene of the last test on 19 October 1989. The flooded Chagan crater here is the Atomic Lake.

Access rules unconfirmed

We found no published visitor rules. Before you go, ask the National Nuclear Center in Kurchatov whether it receives visitors.

The Semipalatinsk Test Site (also called the Polygon) was the Soviet Union’s main nuclear testing ground, a block of steppe of roughly 18,000–19,000 km² in north-east Kazakhstan. The first test here took place on 29 August 1949 and the last test took place on 19 October 1989. Kazakhstan closed the site on 29 August 1991, a date the UN now marks as the International Day against Nuclear Tests.

If you are thinking of going, the key fact is this: we found no published procedure for tourist visits, so contact the National Nuclear Center in Kurchatov before you plan anything.

Key facts

LocationNorth-east Kazakhstan, south-west of the Irtysh; about 800 km north of Almaty (IAEA), about 130 km from Semey (Tengrinews)
Areaabout 19,000 km² (IAEA) / 18,500 km² (gov.kz) / over 18,300 km² (National Nuclear Center)
Tests456 (IAEA): 116 above ground, 4 excavation, 336 underground; other counts up to 470
Total yield17.4 megatons TNT equivalent (IAEA)
First test29 August 1949, Experimental Field
Last test19 October 1989, Balapan
Closed29 August 1991, by decree of the President of the Kazakh SSR
Managed today byNational Nuclear Center of the Republic of Kazakhstan, Kurchatov

Where it is and its main sites

The site lies south-west of the Irtysh River, which forms its boundary along a short stretch. The nearest base for visitors is Semey, the city that gave the site its name (it was called Semipalatinsk until 2007). Kurchatov, the town built to serve the site, sits on its north-eastern edge.

AreaWhat happened thereTests (IAEA table)
Experimental Field (Site Sh, “Ground Zero”)above-ground and atmospheric tests, 1949–196226 ground-level, 87 atmospheric
Degelen (Site G)underground tests in tunnels cut into a mountain massif215 in tunnels, 24 in boreholes
Balapan (Site B)underground tests in boreholes; home of the Atomic Lake107 in boreholes, 2 excavation
Kurchatovservice town, code-named Semipalatinsk-21—

In the 1990s the IAEA counted 30,000–40,000 people living in villages around the site, among them Akzhar, Dolon, Moldary, Sarzhal and Kainar. The flooded crater of the 1965 Chagan explosion has its own page: Chagan Atomic Lake.

Timeline

YearEvent
1947Town later named Kurchatov founded
194929 Aug: first test at the site
196111 Oct: first underground test, Degelen
1962Last atmospheric test (24–25 Dec, IAEA); afterwards only underground tests, following the 1963 Partial Test Ban Treaty
198919 Oct: last test, Balapan
199129 Aug: closure decree
199215 May: National Nuclear Center founded
1993–1994IAEA missions at Kazakhstan’s request
1996–2000Degelen tunnels sealed under a joint programme with the US (another National Nuclear Center page gives 1996–2001)
2009UN resolution 64/35 declares 29 August the International Day against Nuclear Tests
2013–2020Experimental Field made safe with the US Defense Threat Reduction Agency and Los Alamos
20241 Jan: law on the Semipalatinsk Nuclear Safety Zone takes effect

In a 2015 article for the CTBTO, Kazakhstan’s foreign minister described the country as the first in the world to close a nuclear test site on its own territory. In 2008 the CTBTO held its first full-scale on-site inspection exercise here.

Radiation: what the official sources say

The picture is uneven, and the most-cited assessment is now old. The IAEA’s 1998 report found little or no residual radioactivity over most of the site, with heavy contamination at the Experimental Field and around the Atomic Lake at Balapan.

ScenarioIAEA estimate (1998)
Daily visits to the Experimental Field or Lake Balapanabout 10 mSv per year, mostly external exposure
Living permanently in those areasaround 100 mSv per year, above intervention level; access should be restricted
Outside the test siteno more than 0.1 mSv per year added dose; no intervention justified

Since then, the National Nuclear Center reports that the Experimental Field was surveyed on foot over more than 20,000 km of gamma traverses in 2013–2020, contaminated soil was removed and reinforced-concrete structures were built over some objects to prevent unauthorised access. From 1 January 2024 the contaminated part is a legal nuclear safety zone: only activities listed in the law (safety, rehabilitation, research and similar) are allowed, everything else is banned, and the boundary is marked with warning signs.

We found no visitor guidance from the National Nuclear Center or the energy ministry. What the official documents imply is simple: keep out of signed zone areas and go to the Experimental Field or the Atomic Lake only with whoever controls access there. This page gives no medical advice; ask a doctor about health questions.

Can you visit?

There is no clear official answer. The 2023 law mentions “visiting rules” as part of the zone’s official passport, but the rules are not in the law and we could not find them published.

PlaceStatusSource
Kurchatov townopen town; we found no entry restrictionstown passport, gov.kz
Museum in Kurchatovan exhibition exists (2020 photo on Wikimedia Commons); opening hours unconfirmedno official source
Experimental Fieldin 2019 journalists were taken by National Nuclear Center staff with radiation monitors and protective clothingTengrinews, 3 Sep 2019
Atomic Lake, Balapanthe IAEA recommended restricting access; tourist terms unconfirmedIAEA 1998
Nuclear safety zone areasactivity outside the permitted list is banned by lawLaw No. 16-VIII
Stronger than Death memorial, Semeya memorial to test victims in the cityphotos on Commons

If anyone offers you a trip onto the site, ask in writing who authorises the visit and whether a radiation specialist comes along. Check with the National Nuclear Center (contacts on nnc.kz) whether it is currently receiving visitors and what foreigners need.

Getting there

Semey is the practical base: it has an international airport, and the city has the Abai Museum and the Stronger than Death memorial to test victims. See our Semey city guide and day trips from Semey. We could not confirm a road distance or regular public transport from Semey to Kurchatov on official portals.

If you are starting in Astana, the history hall of the National Museum covers the test site.

Not verified yet
  • The official procedure for visiting the Experimental Field, the Atomic Lake and other sites, including what foreigners need.
  • The name and opening hours of the museum in Kurchatov.
  • The number of the 1991 closure decree: its date and title are confirmed, but we did not see the number in an open text.
  • The year the Stronger than Death memorial opened.
  • How much former test site land has been returned to economic use.
  • Road distance and transport between Semey and Kurchatov.

Semipalatinsk Test Site: tips before you go

  1. Stay out of areas marked with nuclear safety zone signs: since 2024 the law bans any activity there beyond its permitted list.
  2. Use Semey as your base: it is about 130 km from the test site and has the Stronger than Death memorial.

More to see nearby

Frequently asked questions

Where is the Semipalatinsk Test Site?
In north-east Kazakhstan, south-west of the Irtysh River, where Abai, Pavlodar and Karaganda regions meet. The IAEA puts it about 800 km north of Almaty; Tengrinews gives about 130 km from the city of Semey.
Is the Semipalatinsk Test Site still active?
No. The last test took place on 19 October 1989, and the site was closed by decree on 29 August 1991. The National Nuclear Center of Kazakhstan now manages research and rehabilitation.
How many nuclear tests were carried out at Semipalatinsk?
456 according to the IAEA: 116 above ground, 4 excavation tests and 336 underground. The IAEA notes that counts range from 456 to 470 depending on how a test is defined.
Is it safe to visit the Semipalatinsk Test Site?
The IAEA found little or no residual radioactivity over most of the site, but heavy contamination at the Experimental Field and the Atomic Lake, and recommended restricting access there. Since 2024 contaminated parts form a legal safety zone where activity outside a permitted list is banned.
Can tourists go to the test site?
We found no official visitor procedure on the National Nuclear Center’s website. Journalists in 2019 were taken by centre staff with radiation monitors, but we could not confirm terms for private travellers or foreigners.
What is Kurchatov?
The town built to serve the test site, code-named Semipalatinsk-21, on the left bank of the Irtysh. It was founded in 1947, has about 10,500 residents (2023) and is home to the National Nuclear Center.
Why is 29 August the International Day against Nuclear Tests?
It marks the closure of the Semipalatinsk site on 29 August 1991. The UN General Assembly declared the day in resolution 64/35 of 2 December 2009, on Kazakhstan’s initiative.
How big was the Semipalatinsk Test Site?
About 18,000 to 19,000 km². The IAEA gives about 19,000 km², the government portal 18,500 km² and the National Nuclear Center more than 18,300 km².

Sources

Read also