charyn.kz an independent guide to wild Kazakhstan
Markakol: lake Markakol at dusk with the Altai mountains and pink sky, May

Markakol

Markakol Nature Reserve protects a mountain lake at 1,447 m in East Kazakhstan, close to the Chinese border.

  • Ust-Kamenogorsk: 400 km
  • About 11 h each way
  • Lake at 1,447 m
  • 4x4 essential
  • Reserve since 1976
  • No border permit needed

Photo: Dmitry A. Mottl · Wikimedia Commons · CC BY-SA 3.0

Verified: 2026-09

Markakol: why go

Lake Markakol, 1,447 m

A 38 × 19 km mountain lake of 455 km² between the Kurchum and Azutau ranges, up to 27 m deep, with a single outflow, the Kalzhyr river.

The Markakol lenok (uskuch)

The lake's endemic fish and the reserve's emblem species, sharing the cold water with grayling and char.

Larch taiga

Larch taiga, dark conifer forest and dwarf fir thickets surround the lake, home to over 700 vascular plant and 55 mammal species.

Bears, black storks, snow leopard

About 250 bird species, the black stork among them. Mammals include brown bear and wolf, and a snow leopard occasionally wanders in.

The mother-in-law's tongue road

Tarmac ends at Markakol village, then comes 50+ km of gravel with hairpins locals call the mother-in-law's tongue, partly along the border fence.

Markakol reserve trails

The Small Markakol Circle and the Markakol Trail come with gazebos and fire pits. Tourism and recreation are allowed only in the buffer zone.

Markakol — state nature reserve (zapovednik), East Kazakhstan Region.

Ichthyological illustration: lenok trout in profile, with the head seen from above
Illustration Ichthyological illustration: lenok trout in profile, with the head seen from above

Key figures

Area102 971 ha
RegionEast Kazakhstan Region

Category

State nature reserve (zapovednik)

A zapovednik is the strictest category. There is no free entry: permission and prior arrangement are required, usually along marked ecological trails and with an escort.

Entrance tariff

0.2 MCI per pedestrian, 0.7 MCI per car. In 2026 that is 865 ₸ and 3,027.5 ₸.

The tariff is set by appendix 5 to Order No. 232 of 2 October 2024.

The tariff is set in MCI units rather than tenge, so the amount changes with each January budget.

What to see

  • Lake Markakol
  • uskuch trout
  • larch taiga

What Markakol is

Markakol Nature Reserve protects a mountain lake at 1,447 m in East Kazakhstan, close to the Chinese border. It is one of the hardest places in the country to reach: about 400 km from Ust-Kamenogorsk, with the final stretch on gravel. Summer is the realistic season, and visitors stay on the reserve’s routes and in its buffer zone.

The reserve was created on 4 August 1976. The lake sits in a basin between the Kurchum and Azutau ranges; around 50 streams flow in, and a single river, the Kalzhyr, flows out.

Lake parameterValue
Altitude1,447 m
Length × width38 × 19 km
Area455 km²
Maximum depth27 m
Mean depth14 m
Freeze-upon average from 20 November, ice 60–120 cm

Figures from Russian Wikipedia.

Nature

The lake is ringed by larch taiga, dark coniferous forest and dwarf fir thickets. Wikipedia lists over 700 vascular plant species, 55 mammals and about 250 birds, including brown bear, wolf and black stork, with occasional snow leopard. The fish everyone talks about is the lake lenok, known locally as uskuch, alongside grayling and char.

Getting to Markakol

Inbusiness.kz (2020) gives about 400 km and around 11 hours one way from Ust-Kamenogorsk, including a ferry across the Irtysh. A Tengrinews report from August 2023 describes the last part:

  • tarmac ends in Markakol village, with more than 50 km still to go to the lake;
  • the rest is gravel, including a serpentine locals call the mother-in-law’s tongue;
  • the reporters call a 4x4 essential and advise against driving after dark;
  • part of the road runs alongside the border fence with China.

Urunkhayka, the village on the lake shore, has just over 200 residents and no paved streets.

Not verified yet We found no information on mobile coverage along the road or at the lake, or on whether the gravel section is passable in spring and autumn. Check with the reserve administration.

Border zone: do you need a pass?

The area is a border district, but Resolution No. 356 explicitly lists Lake Markakol (an 18 km deep strip) among places where no border-zone pass is required, even for foreigners. Carry your passport or ID anyway. The logic of these exemptions is explained in border zone permits: where you need one and where you do not.

Trails and rules

Markakol is a zapovednik, the strictest category of protected area (how the categories differ). According to Inbusiness.kz, tourism and recreation are allowed in the buffer zone; staff set up the Small Markakol Circle excursion route and the Markakol Trail nature path, with shelters, fire pits and portable toilets. Recreational fishing is limited to residents of the buffer zone at designated spots. At the time the reserve received roughly 500 to 700 visitors a year.

Reports from 2020 and 2023 found no dedicated tourist bases at the lake, so plan your overnight in advance. The MCI fee is in the card above; the fee calculator converts it. The neighbouring mountain park in East Kazakhstan is Katon-Karagay.

→ All national parks

Markakol: when to go, month by month

  1. January: off season
  2. February: off season
  3. March: off season
  4. April: off season
  5. May: possible
  6. June: best time
  7. July: best time
  8. August: best time
  9. September: possible
  10. October: off season
  11. November: off season
  12. December: off season

Go in summer. The lake usually freezes from about 20 November; ask the reserve administration whether the dirt road is passable off-season.

Markakol: tips before you go

  1. Allow about 11 hours each way from Ust-Kamenogorsk, including the ferry across the Irtysh.
  2. The final stretch is gravel and hairpins: a 4x4 is a must, and driving it after dark is not advised.
  3. There are no tourist bases at the lake and almost nowhere to stay in Urunkhayka, so plan your night in advance.
  4. Recreational fishing is allowed only for residents of the buffer zone, and only at designated spots.
  5. Even foreigners need no border-zone pass here, but keep your passport or ID on you.

More to see nearby

Frequently asked questions

How do I get to Lake Markakol?
Inbusiness.kz puts it at about 400 km and some 11 hours from Ust-Kamenogorsk, including a ferry across the Irtysh. Tarmac ends in Markakol village, then more than 50 km of gravel follow, and Tengrinews reporters called a 4x4 essential.
Do I need a border-zone pass for Markakol?
Government Resolution No. 356 lists Lake Markakol among places where no border-zone pass is required, including for foreigners. You still need to carry your passport or ID.
Can I hike freely in Markakol reserve?
Only on the set routes: a 2020 report mentions the Small Markakol Circle excursion and the Markakol Trail nature path. Tourism and recreation are allowed in the buffer zone; arrange the visit with the administration.
Where can I stay at Markakol?
Reports from 2020 and 2023 say there are no dedicated tourist bases at the lake. Urunkhayka, a village of just over 200 people, has almost nowhere to stay.
Can I fish on Lake Markakol?
Recreational fishing is allowed only for residents of the buffer zone and only at designated spots. The lake is home to the lake lenok (uskuch).

Sources