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Aktau Mountains, Altyn-Emel: the striped slopes

Altyn-Emel

Altyn-Emel is a desert national park in the Ili River valley: the Singing Dune, the striped clay mountains of Aktau, the volcanic Katutau range, the Saka burial mounds of Besshatyr, and thousands of kulans and goitered gazelles.

  • 250 km to Basshi
  • 307,653 ha, since 1996
  • Entry 0.2 MCI a day
  • Pass: 1 day, 1 route
  • About 3,600 kulans
  • UNESCO site since 2023

Photo: Vlad Panov · Unsplash

Verified: 2026-09

Altyn-Emel: why go

Altyn-Emel's Singing Dune

Between the Big and Small Kalkan hills near the Ili River, the dune hums in dry weather as sand slides down. About 40 km from Basshi.

The Aktau and Katutau hills

Banded clay Aktau, with fossils 25–30 million years old, and volcanic Katutau share one route, about 70 km from Basshi.

The Saka mounds of Besshatyr

The name means five tents: a Saka necropolis of the 8th–3rd centuries BC, 3 km from the Ili, with some 30 mounds. Access is via Shengeldy.

Altyn-Emel's kulans

32 kulans were brought here in 1982; the 2025 count found about 3,600, plus over 5,500 goitered gazelles. Leaving the road to approach is banned.

Cold Winter Deserts of Turan

Since 2023 Altyn-Emel and the Barsakelmes reserve have been part of this transnational UNESCO World Heritage site.

A park 200 km across

The park stretches about 200 km west to east and 30 km north to south; Trekking Club suggests allowing 2–3 days for all of it.

Altyn-Emel State National Natural Park — Almaty Region. Established on 10 April 1996.

Engraving: a single enormous dune on a desert plain between mountain ranges
Illustration Engraving: a single enormous dune on a desert plain between mountain ranges

Key figures

Official nameAltyn-Emel State National Natural Park
Area307 653 ha
RegionAlmaty Region
Established10 April 1996

209,553 ha at its creation in 1996, later expanded.

Entrance tariff

0.2 MCI per pedestrian, 0.9 MCI per car. In 2026 that is 865 ₸ and 3,892.5 ₸.

The tariff is set by appendix 12 to Order No. 232 of 2 October 2024.

The tariff is set in MCI units rather than tenge, so the amount changes with each January budget.

What to see

  • Singing Dune
  • Aktau chalk mountains
  • Besshatyr kurgans

Altyn-Emel in short

Altyn-Emel is a desert national park in the Ili River valley: the Singing Dune, the striped clay mountains of Aktau, the volcanic Katutau range, the Saka burial mounds of Besshatyr, and thousands of kulans and goitered gazelles. The park office is in Basshi village, about 250 km from Almaty. Go in spring or autumn — summer days here pass +40 °C.

The key difference from Charyn Canyon or Kolsai: you cannot simply drive in and wander. You need a one-day pass for one route chosen in advance, and the sights are tens of kilometres apart on dirt tracks.

Since 2023 Altyn-Emel, together with the Barsakelmes reserve, has been part of the transnational UNESCO site “Cold Winter Deserts of Turan” — see UNESCO heritage in Kazakhstan.

Permit, routes and escort

According to Tengrinews (May 2026):

  • the pass is issued and paid for at the park administration in Basshi and is valid for one day;
  • the park has three main routes, and you choose one in advance;
  • online payment works through Kaspi or Halyk only; keep the e-receipt, as checks are strict.

Trekking Club adds that permits are issued only at the central office in Basshi or the park’s Almaty office — you cannot buy one when entering from the Shengeldy side — and that the western and northern entrances have posts where the pass is checked.

Not verified yet Whether a park escort is mandatory. In 2019 The Astana Times reported that the Basshi office assigns a staff member to accompany visitors. The 2026 sources we checked (Tengrinews, About Kazakhstan) do not mention a mandatory escort and list guide or ranger services as a separate paid item. Ask when you arrange your pass.

The entry rate is shown in the park card above; in Altyn-Emel it is charged per day. For the amount in tenge use the national park fee calculator.

Distances

LegDistanceSource
Almaty to Basshiabout 250 km (other descriptions: 242–260 km)Tengrinews, About Kazakhstan, Trekking Club
Basshi to the Singing Duneabout 40 kmTrekking Club
Basshi to the Aktau mountainsabout 70 kmTrekking Club
Shengeldy to Besshatyr moundsabout 80 kmTrekking Club
Park extentabout 200 km west to east, 30 km north to southTrekking Club

The road from Almaty follows the highway towards Ust-Kamenogorsk. Tengrinews describes the asphalt after Saryozek as full of potholes and cracks, giving way to dirt closer to the park. Trekking Club suggests allowing 2–3 days for the whole park.

Planning your days

Because each pass covers one route for one day, it makes sense to plan by day:

  1. Day 1. Drive from Almaty to Basshi, arrange the pass, and visit the Singing Dune (about 40 km from Basshi) in the evening once the heat eases.
  2. Day 2. A new pass for the Aktau and Katutau route (about 70 km each way), stopping at Kosbastau.
  3. Day 3 (optional). The Besshatyr mounds from the Shengeldy side — a separate entrance and a separate pass that must be arranged in advance in Basshi or Almaty.

There is almost no infrastructure on the routes, so carry water, food and spare fuel. Tengrinews describes broken asphalt after Saryozek and dirt closer to the park, so a low-clearance car is an unnecessary risk. For combining the desert with canyons and mountains elsewhere in the south-east, see building a route around Charyn.

The Singing Dune

The dune lies between the Big and Small Kalkan mountains, not far from the Ili River. Sources disagree on its size: Russian Wikipedia gives 1.5 km long and up to 130 m high, The Astana Times up to 120 m. The low hum it is named for comes in dry weather when sand slides down the slope.

Climbing tips, timing and the sound are covered on the Singing Dune page.

Aktau and Katutau mountains

Aktau are clay mountains banded white, red and orange and cut by small canyons. The Astana Times reports that palaeontologists found 56 species of Early Miocene flora here and remains of ancient animals 25–30 million years old; Tengrinews notes there was a sea here about 50 million years ago.

Katutau next door are volcanic: according to Tengrinews, two volcanoes were active here millions of years ago. On the way, most visitors stop at Kosbastau to see a willow estimated at more than 700 years old.

Both are reached on one route from Basshi. More on the Aktau and Katutau page.

Besshatyr burial mounds

The name is usually translated as “five tents”. Besshatyr is a Saka necropolis (8th–3rd centuries BC) about 3 km from the Ili. The Astana Times counts about 30 mounds. Access is from the Shengeldy side rather than from Basshi, so plan it as a separate day. The Tamgaly-Tas petroglyphs are in the same part of the park.

Kulans and gazelles

Kulans are the park’s biggest conservation success. In 1982, 32 kulans were brought from the Barsakelmes reserve, and the herd has grown roughly a hundredfold: the February 2025 count gave about 3,600, and a November 2025 report by 24.kz nearly 4,000. Goitered gazelles number more than 5,500. According to Wikipedia, Przewalski’s horses were also returned to the park from German zoos in the early 2000s, though no current count is published. Since 2006, 307 kulans have been moved to other protected areas, including Ile-Balkhash.

You will usually see them at a distance from the route. Leaving the road or marked area to get closer is not allowed, and sightings are never guaranteed.

Season and heat

MonthDayNight
April+15 to +25 °C+2 to +12 °C
July+33 to +43 °C+15 to +25 °C
October+5 to +15 °C0 to +10 °C
January−5 to −15 °C−10 to −20 °C

Figures from Trekking Club. The Astana Times names April–June and August–October as the best months. Annual precipitation is no more than 300–330 mm, and there is almost no shade on the routes. In summer, set off at dawn, climb the dune early or late, and carry plenty of water.

Where to stay and mobile signal

Basshi is the base: The Astana Times mentioned small hotels there, while Tengrinews in 2026 advises planning on a tent or camper. Overnight stays are allowed only at designated sites; according to 2023 QazaqGeography guidance, camping at the Singing Dune is prohibited.

Tele2/Altel says its 5G network is available in the park (October 2026), but Tengrinews notes the signal fades once you leave the asphalt. Before setting off, go through what to check before visiting a national park.

→ All national parks

Altyn-Emel: when to go, month by month

  1. January: off season
  2. February: off season
  3. March: possible
  4. April: best time
  5. May: best time
  6. June: best time
  7. July: possible
  8. August: best time
  9. September: best time
  10. October: best time
  11. November: possible
  12. December: off season

April–June and August–October; July days hit +33 to +43 °C with almost no shade, January days −5 to −15 °C.

Altyn-Emel: tips before you go

  1. Each pass covers one day and one route: the dune, Aktau with Katutau, and Besshatyr are separate days.
  2. Arrange the Besshatyr pass in advance in Basshi or Almaty: it is not sold at the Shengeldy entrance.
  3. Carry water, food and spare fuel: there is almost no infrastructure on the routes.
  4. Keep the e-receipt from Kaspi or Halyk: checks are strict.
  5. Camp only at designated sites; camping at the Singing Dune is prohibited.

More to see nearby

Frequently asked questions

How do I get to Altyn-Emel from Almaty?
Drive to Basshi village, where the park administration is: Tengrinews puts it at about 250 km on concrete, asphalt and dirt. After Saryozek the road deteriorates, and the last stretch is unpaved.
Do I need a permit to visit Altyn-Emel?
Yes. The pass is issued at the park office in Basshi or the Almaty office, is valid for one day and covers one of three routes chosen in advance. It is checked at the park entrances.
Do I need a park escort in Altyn-Emel?
In 2019 The Astana Times reported that the Basshi office assigns a staff member to accompany visitors. We could not confirm that this is still mandatory, so ask when you arrange your pass.
When is the best time to visit Altyn-Emel?
April to June and August to October. July daytime temperatures run from +33 to +43 °C, while January days are −5 to −15 °C.
How far is the Singing Dune from Basshi?
About 40 km according to Trekking Club; the Aktau mountains are about 70 km from Basshi. The Besshatyr burial mounds are 80 km from Shengeldy and make a separate route.
Will I see kulans in Altyn-Emel?
Chances are good: the February 2025 count found about 3,600 kulans, and there are more than 5,500 goitered gazelles. Leaving the road to get closer is not allowed.
Can you camp in Altyn-Emel?
Only at designated sites. According to the 2023 QazaqGeography guidance, camping at the Singing Dune is prohibited. Basshi is the usual base.

Sources