Aktau and Katutau mountains in Altyn-Emel

Aktau is a range of banded clay hills cut by canyons in Altyn-Emel National Park; its layers have yielded remains of ancient crocodiles, turtles and rhinos. Next to it lies Katutau, a dark massif of volcanic rock. Both are covered in a day on a single park route from Basshi village, about 250 km from Almaty; sources put Aktau 70–120 km of dirt road from Basshi. The best months are April–June and August–October.

What the Aktau Mountains are

Aktau means “white mountain” in Kazakh. Wikipedia describes the range as clay hills cut by canyons. White does dominate, but up close the slopes are striped: The Astana Times writes of white, red and orange horizontal bands, while Tengrinews in 2026 described cream, yellow, pink and grey layers.

Each band is a separate layer of sediment laid down at its own time and under its own conditions. That is why geologists value Aktau: Tengrinews (2020) quotes the view that its stratigraphic section, visible from space, is unique, with a long stretch of Earth history readable on a single slope.

Age and geology

These figures conflict less than it seems: different layers of the section have different ages, and different authors are dating different parts of it. We found no detailed geological map tying the layers together in open sources.

Fossils: what has been found

According to Tengrinews (2020), remains of crocodiles, turtles, rhinos and dinosaurs have been found in the Aktau hills. Bones of animals that lived more than 50 million years ago sometimes turn up on excursions, and some finds are on display at the park visitor centre. The Astana Times adds that the rhinos were giant ones and that imprints of spruce, birch, alder, linden and ailanthus were found too — trees that do not grow in today’s desert.

None of this is a souvenir. Whatever is found in a national park stays in the park: removing stones or fossils breaks the protected-area regime.

In 2019 the Satpayev Institute of Geological Sciences proposed a geopark in Altyn-Emel with a “Lunar Landscape” route (about 2.3 km through a gypsum canyon) and a “Dinosaur Trail” (about 700 m). Tengrinews reported that footprints of Mesozoic animals were found here in the 1920s and taken to the Palaeontological Museum in Moscow.

Katutau: the extinct volcanoes

Katutau is the neighbouring massif and looks nothing like Aktau. Wikipedia says it is built of volcanic rock; Tengrinews writes that two volcanoes were active here millions of years ago. Instead of pale clay you get solidified lava, dark stone, deep cracks, strange shapes and small caves, with natural steps leading higher. Tengrinews warns that the turn to Katutau is easy to miss.

The Kosbastau willow

On the way to the mountains people usually stop at the Kosbastau tract to see an old willow, estimated at over 700 years. Its heavy branches touch the ground, root and send up new trunks. Locals regard the tree as sacred.

Getting to Aktau and Katutau

The permit is issued at the park administration in Basshi. According to Tengrinews (May 2026), it is valid for one day and one route chosen in advance; you can pay online via Kaspi or Halyk, and should keep the receipt. The road from Almaty follows the highway towards Ust-Kamenogorsk; after Saryozek the asphalt deteriorates, and closer to the park it gives way to gravel and dirt. Mobile reception is poor.

When to take photos

The bands of Aktau read best in soft, low light — early morning and towards sunset, when the white and pink layers do not wash out into one bright patch. Tengrinews notes that many visitors camp here for several days for the sunrises. At midday in summer the light is harsh and the heat makes walking the canyons hard. Our tips on photographing Charyn apply here too.

Season and hazards

Figures from Trekking Club. The Astana Times names April–June and August–October as the best months.

The main hazard is rain. Trekking Club warns that mudflows can come down the clay gorges of Aktau in rain, and Tengrinews adds that clay roads quickly become hard going even for 4x4s. If the sky clouds over, get out of the gorges early.

Camping, fees and rules

There are no hotels near the mountains. Tengrinews advises planning on a tent or a camper van. According to uvu.kz, tents are allowed only in designated areas, and there is no fuel inside the park.

Altyn-Emel’s fee under Order No. 232 is 0.2 MCI per pedestrian and 0.9 MCI per car per day; the fee calculator gives the tenge amount. Also see what to check before visiting a park.

Nearby

• The Singing Dune — the park’s best-known sight, a separate route from Basshi.
• Charyn Canyon and how Charyn was formed — another sedimentary landscape for comparison.
• Nature near Almaty: 15 day trips.
• UNESCO heritage in Kazakhstan.